Methods of Improvement of Dyeability of Wool with Natural Dyes

Document Type : Review paper

Author

Department of Textile Engineering, Yazd University,

Abstract

Nowadays, Due to the environmental pollution associated with synthetic dyes, the attention to the application of natural dyes in the textile industry is growing. Natural dyes are environmentally friendly and possess some advantages and disadvantages in comparison with synthetic dyes. One of the main drawbacks of natural dyes is the low exhaustion of textile fibers. To improve the dyeing of textiles with natural colorants, several methods, including metal mordanting, bio-mordanting, treatment with nano-clay, ultrasound, microwave, plasma, ultraviolet, and enzyme, besides the attachment of chitosan, cyclodextrins, and dendrimers to the fibers have been employed. Due to the toxicity of the majority of metallic mordants, the use of bio-mordants and surface modification of fibers by physical and chemical methods are considered as alternative strategies for promoting the natural dyeing of wool fibers. These methods usually improve the sorption of natural dyes by wool fibers and improve the fastness properties of the dyed fibers in most cases. In this paper, the different methods employed to enhance the dyeing of wool fibers with natural dyes are discussed and summarized.

Keywords

Main Subjects

References

  1. الف. حاجی، رنگزاهای طبیعی علم و فناوری، انتشارات دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی‌بیرجند، بیرجند، ایران، 1395.
  2. م. حسین نژاد و ک. قرنجیگ، "مروری بر دندانه‌ها‌ی طبیعی و فلزی برای کاربرد در رنگرزی الیاف"، مطالعات در دنیای رنگ، 10, 21-30، 1399.
  3. D. J. Hill, "Is there a future for natural dyes?", Color. Technol. 27, 18-25, 1997.
  4. A. Haji and S. S. Qavamnia, "Response surface methodology optimized dyeing of wool with cumin seeds extract improved with plasma treatment", Fiber. Polym. 16, 46-53, 2015.
  5. A. Nazari, M. Montazer, F. Afzali, A. Sheibani, "Optimization of proteases pretreatment on natural dyeing of wool using response surface methodology", Clean Techn. Environ. Policy, 16, 1081-1093, 2013.
  6. V. Sivakumar, J. Vijaeeswarri, J. L. Anna, "Effective natural dye extraction from different plant materials using ultrasound", Ind. Crops Prod. 33, 116-122, 2011.
  7. K. Sinha, P. D. Saha, S. Datta, "Response surface optimization and artificial neural network modeling of microwave assisted natural dye extraction from pomegranate rind", Ind. Crops Prod. 37, 408-414, 2012.
  8. M. Montazer, M. Parvinzadeh, "Effect of ammonia on madder-dyed natural protein fiber", J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 93, 2704-2710, 2004.
  9. ب. انصاری، م. خواجه مهریزی و الف. حاجی، "رنگرزی کالای پشمی آماده سازی شده به کمک پلاسمای اکسیژن با رنگزای طبیعی گل ریواس"، نشریه علمی پژوهشی علوم و فناوری رنگ، 9، 143-135، 1394.
  10. J. Shen, P. Gao, H. Ma, "The effect of tris(2-carboxyethyl)phosphine on the dyeing of wool fabrics with natural dyes", Dyes Pigm. 108, 70-75, 2014.
  11. M. Parvinzadeh Gashti, B. Katozian, M. Shaver, A. Kiumarsi, "Clay nanoadsorbent as an environmentally friendly substitute for mordants in the natural dyeing of carpet piles", Color. Technol. 130, 54-61, 2013.
  12. V. R. Giri Dev, J. Venugopal, S. Sudha, G. Deepika, S. Ramakrishna, "Dyeing and antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan treated wool fabrics with henna dye", Carbohydr. Polym. 75, 646-650, 2009.
  13. M. Yusuf, M. Shahid, M. I. Khan, S. A. Khan, M. A. Khan, F. Mohammad, "Dyeing studies with henna and madder: A research on effect of tin (ii) chloride mordant", J. Saudi Chem. Soc. 19, 64-72, 2015.
  14. S. A. Khan, I. Shahid ul, M. Shahid, M. I. Khan, M. Yusuf, L. J. Rather, M. A. Khan, F. Mohammad, "Mixed metal mordant dyeing of wool using root extract of rheum emodi (indian rhubarb/dolu)", J. Nat. Fibers, 12, 243-255, 2015.
  15. M. Feiz, H. Norouzi, "Dyeing studies of wool fibers with madder (rubia tinctorum) and effect of different mordants and mordanting procedures on color characteristics of dyed samples", Fiber. Polym. 15, 2504-2514, 2014.
  16. Ö. Erdem İşmal, E. Özdoğan, L. Yıldırım, "An alternative natural dye, almond shell waste: Effects of plasma and mordants on dyeing properties", Color. Technol. 129, 431-437, 2013.
  17. M. O. Bulut, H. Baydar, E. Akar, "Ecofriendly natural dyeing of woollen yarn using mordants with enzymatic pretreatments", J. Text. Inst. 1-10, 2013.
  18. A. Haji, "Antibacterial dyeing of wool with natural cationic dye using metal mordants", Mater. Sci. Medzg. 18, 267-270, 2012.
  19. F. S. Ghaheh, A. S. Nateri, S. M. Mortazavi, D. Abedi, J. Mokhtari, "The effect of mordant salts on antibacterial activity of wool fabric dyed with pomegranate and walnut shell extracts", Color. Technol. 128, 473-478, 2012.
  20. R.-C. Tang, H. Tang, C. Yang, "Adsorption isotherms and mordant dyeing properties of tea polyphenols on wool, silk, and nylon", Ind. Eng. Chem. Res. 2010, 49, 8894-8901
  21. A. Haji, "Functional dyeing of wool with natural dye extracted from berberis vulgaris wood and rumex hymenosepolus root as biomordant", Iran. J. Chem. Chem. Eng. 29, 55-60, 2010.
  22. P. S. Vankar, R. Shanker, D. Mahanta, S. C. Tiwari, "Ecofriendly sonicator dyeing of cotton with rubia cordifolia linn. Using biomordant", Dyes Pigm. 76, 207-212, 2008.
  23. G. Dalby, "Greener mordants for natural coloration", J. Soc. Dyers Colour., 109, 8-9, 1993.
  24. M. Yusuf, F. Mohammad, M. Shabbir, "Eco-friendly and effective dyeing of wool with anthraquinone colorants extracted from rubia cordifolia roots: Optimization, colorimetric and fastness assay", J. King Saud Univ. Sci. 29, 137-144, 2017.
  25. M. N. Morshed, H. Deb, S. A. Azad, M. Z. Sultana, A. K. Guha, "Aqueous and solvent extraction of natural colorants from tagetes erecta l., lawsonia inermis, rosa l for coloration of cellulosic substrates", Am. J. Polym. Sci. 2. 34-39, 2016.
  26. L. J. Rather, Q. F. Dar, Q. Zhou, L. Haofan, Q. Li, "Binary mix metal mordant dyeing of merino wool fibers using cinnamomum camphora waste/fallen leaves extract: A brief statistical analysis of color parameters", J. Text. Inst. 1-10, 2020.
  27. H. Jiang, X. Hu, B. I. Meena, A. Khan, M. T. Hussain, J. Yao, J. Wang, "Extraction of natural dyes from the stem of caulis spatholobi and their application on wool", Text. Res. J. 89, 5209-5217, 2019.
  28. E. P. Akçakoca Kumbasar, R. Atav, M. I. Bahtiyari, "Effects of alkali proteases on dyeing properties of various proteinous materials with natural dyes", Text. Res. J. 79, 517-525, 2009.
  29. A. Jahangiri, S. M. Ghoreishian, A. Akbari, M. Norouzi, M. Ghasemi, M. Ghoreishian, E. Shafiabadi, "Natural dyeing of wool by madder (rubia tinctorum l.) root extract using tannin-based biomordants: Colorimetric, fastness and tensile assay", Fiber. Polym. 19, 2139-2148, 2018.
  30. M. Hosseinnezhad, K. Gharanjig, N. Razani, H. Imani, "Green dyeing of wool fibers with madder: Study of combination of two biomordant on k/s and fastness", Fiber. Polym. 21, 2036-2041, 2020.
  31. M. Hosseinnezhad, K. Gharanjig, R. Jafari, H. Imani, "Green dyeing of woolen yarns with weld and madder natural dyes in the presences of biomordant", Prog. Color, Color. Coat. 14, 35-45, 2021.
  32. L. J. Rather, M. A. Khan, F. Mohammad, "Biomordanting potential of acacia nilotica (babul) in conjunction with kerria lacca and rheum emodi natural dyes", J. Nat. Fibers, 16, 275-286, 2019.
  33. Ö. E. İşmal, L. Yıldırım, "Metal mordants and biomordants",The impact and prospects of green chemistry for textile technology", Woodhead Publishing, 2019
  34. I. Shahid ul, L. J. Rather, M. Shabbir, J. Sheikh, M. N. Bukhari, M. A. Khan, F. Mohammad, "Exploiting the potential of polyphenolic biomordants in environmentally friendly coloration of wool with natural dye from butea monosperma flower extract", J. Nat. Fibers, 16, 512-523, 2018.
  35. G. Singh, P. Mathur, N. Singh, J. Sheikh, "Functionalization of wool fabric using kapok flower and bio-mordant", Sustainable Chem. Pharm., 14, 100184, 2019.
  36. A. Riva, I. Algaba, R. Prieto, "Dyeing kinetics of wool fabrics pretreated with a protease", Color. Technol. 118, 59-63, 2002.
  37. M. Parvinzadeh, "Effect of proteolytic enzyme on dyeing of wool with madder", Enzyme Microb. Technol. 40, 1719-1722, 2007.
  38. E. Tsatsaroni, M. Liakopoulou-Kyriakides, I. Eleftheriadis, "Comparative study of dyeing properties of two yellow natural pigments—effect of enzymes and proteins", Dyes Pigm. 37, 307-315, 1998.
  39. R.-p. Zhang, Z.-s. Cai, "Study on the natural dyeing of wool modified with enzyme", Fiber. Polym. 12, 478-483, 2011.
  40. M. Z. M. Salem, I. H. M. Ibrahim, H. M. Ali, H. M. Helmy, "Assessment of the use of natural extracted dyes and pancreatin enzyme for dyeing of four natural textiles: Hplc analysis of phytochemicals", Processes. 8, 59, 2020.
  41. R. Bai, Y. Yu, Q. Wang, J. Yuan, X. Fan, "Effect of laccase on dyeing properties of polyphenol-based natural dye for wool fabric", Fiber. Polym. 17, 1613-1620, 2016.
  42. م. نصیری برومند، مجید منتظر، ویکتوریا دوشک، استفاده از واکنش اکسایش ترکیبات پلی‌فنولیک ماده رنگزای اسپرک توسط لاکاز در رنگرزی پشم، نشریه علمی علوم و فناوری رنگ، 13، 117-107، 1398.
  43. F. Wang, J. Gong, X. Zhang, Y. Ren, J. Zhang, "Preparation of biocolorant and eco-dyeing derived from polyphenols based on laccase-catalyzed oxidative polymerization", Polymers, 10, 196, 2018.
  44. J. Su, J. Fu, Q. Wang, C. Silva, A. Cavaco-Paulo, "Laccase: A green catalyst for the biosynthesis of poly-phenols", Crit. Rev. Biotechnol. 38, 294-307, 2018.
  45. T. J. Mason, F. Chemat, M. Vinatoru, "The extraction of natural products using ultrasound or microwaves", Curr. Org. Chem. 15, 237-247, 2011.
  46. S. J. McNeil, R. A. McCall, "Ultrasound for wool dyeing and finishing", Ultrason. Sonochem. 18, 401-406, 2011.
  47. M. M. Kamel, R. M. El-Shishtawy, B. M. Yussef, H. Mashaly, "Ultrasonic assisted dyeing: Iii. Dyeing of wool with lac as a natural dye", Dyes Pigm. 65, 103-110, 2005.
  48. P. S. Vankar, R. Shanker, S. Dixit, D. Mahanta, "Sonicator dyeing of cotton, wool and silk with the leaves extract", J. Text. Appar. Technol. 6, 1-11, 2009.
  49. N. Baaka, W. Haddar, M. Ben Ticha, M. T. P. Amorim, M. F. M'Henni, "Sustainability issues of ultrasonic wool dyeing with grape pomace colourant", Nat. Prod. Res. 31, 1655-1662, 2017.
  50. Z. Xue, H. Jin-Xin, "Effect of microwave irradiation on the physical properties and structures of wool fabric", J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 119, 944-952, 2011.
  51. Z. Xue, "Study of dyeing properties of wool fabrics treated with microwave", J. Text. Inst. 107, 258-263, 2016.
  52. N. S. Elshemy, "Unconventional natural dyeing using microwave heating with cochineal as natural dyes", Res. J. Text. Apparel. 15, 26-36, 2011.
  53. S. Adeel, M. Hussaan, F. u. Rehman, N. Habib, M. Salman, S. Naz, N. Amin, N. Akhtar, "Microwave-assisted sustainable dyeing of wool fabric using cochineal-based carminic acid as natural colorant", J. Nat. Fibers, 16, 1026-1034, 2018.
  54. S. Adeel, F. Rehman, M. Pervaiz, M. Hussaan, N. Amin, A. Majeed, H. Rehman, "Microwave assisted green isolation of laccaic acid from lac insect (kerria lacca) for wool dyeing", Prog. Color, Color. Coat. 14, 293-299, 2021.
  55. S. Adeel, F. U. Rehman, K. M. Zia, M. Azeem, S. Kiran, M. Zuber, M. Irfan, M. A. Qayyum, "Microwave-supported green dyeing of mordanted wool fabric with arjun bark extracts", J. Nat. Fibers, 1-15, 2019.
  56. J. Wizi, L. Wang, X. Hou, Y. Tao, B. Ma, Y. Yang, "Ultrasound-microwave assisted extraction of natural colorants from sorghum husk with different solvents", Ind. Crops Prod., 120, 203-213, 2018.
  57. A. Haji, M. Khajeh Mehrizi, R. Akbarpour, "Optimization of β-cyclodextrin grafting on wool fibers improved by plasma treatment and assessment of antibacterial activity of berberine finished fabric", J. Inclusion Phenom. Macrocyclic Chem. 81, 121-133, 2015.
  58. A. Haji, "Functional finishing of textiles with β-cyclodextrin", in "Frontiers of textile materials: Polymers, nanomaterials, enzymes, and advanced modification techniques", Wiley, 2020
  59. Yuan Gao, R. Cranston, "Recent advances in antimicrobial treatments of textiles", Text. Res. J. 78, 60-72, 2008
  60. A. Haji, S. Ashraf, M. Nasiriboroumand, C. Lievens, "Environmentally friendly surface treatment of wool fiber with plasma and chitosan for improved coloration with cochineal and safflower natural dyes", Fiber. Polym. 21, 743-750, 2020.
  61. A. Haji, M. Khajeh Mehrizi, J. Sharifzadeh, "Dyeing of wool with aqueous extract of cotton pods improved by plasma treatment and chitosan: Optimization using response surface methodology", Fiber. Polym. 17, 1480-1488, 2016.
  62. A. Haji, M. Khajeh Mehrizi, S. Hashemizad, "Plasma and chitosan treatments for improvement of natural dyeing and antibacterial properties of cotton and wool", Vlakna a Textil. 23, 86-89, 2016.
  63. A. Haji, "Plasma activation and chitosan attachment on cotton and wool for improvement of dyeability and fastness properties", Pigm. Resin Technol. 49, 483-489, 2020.
  64. I. Shahid ul, B. S. Butola, A. Roy, "Chitosan polysaccharide as a renewable functional agent to develop antibacterial, antioxidant activity and colourful shades on wool dyed with tea extract polyphenols", Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 120 1999-2006, 2018.
  65. S. Safapour, M. Sadeghi-Kiakhani, S. Dustmohammdi, "Chitosan-cyanuric chloride hybrid as an efficient novel bio-mordant for improvement of cochineal natural dye absorption on wool yarns", J. Text. Inst. 110, 81-88, 2019.
  66. L. Mehrparvar, S. Safapour, M. Sadeghi-Kiakhani, K. Gharanjig, "Chitosan-polypropylene imine dendrimer hybrid: A new ecological biomordant for cochineal dyeing of wool", Environ Chem Lett, 14, 533–539, 2016.
  67. T. Sajed, A. Haji, M. K. Mehrizi, M. Nasiri Boroumand, "Modification of wool protein fiber with plasma and dendrimer: Effects on dyeing with cochineal", Int. J. Biol. Macromol. 107, 642-653, 2018.
  68. F. Uddin, "Clays, nanoclays, and montmorillonite minerals", Metall, Mat Trans A, 39, 2804-2814, 2008.
  69. Y. Yang, S. Han, Q. Fan, S. C. Ugbolue, "Nanoclay and modified nanoclay as sorbents for anionic, cationic and nonionic dyes", Text. Res. J. 75, 622-627, 2005
  70. H. Barani, "Modification of bentonite with different surfactants and substitute as a mordant in wool natural dyeing", Chiang Mai J. Sci. 45, 492-504, 2018.
  71. K. R. Millington, "Comparison of the effects of gamma and ultraviolet radiation on wool keratin", Color. Technol. 116, 266-272, 2000.
  72. R. H. Wardman, "An introduction to textile coloration principles and practice", John Wiley & Sons Ltd, Hoboken, USA, 2018.
  73. M. Sadeghi-Kiakhani, S. Safapour, F. Sabzi, A. R. Tehrani-Bagha, "Effect of ultra violet (uv) irradiation as an environmentally friendly pre-treatment on dyeing characteristic and colorimetric analysis of wool", Fiber. Polym. 21, 179-187, 2020.
  74. L. Chirila, A. Popescu, I. R. Stanculescu, M. Cutrubinis, A. Cerempei, I. Sandu, "Gamma irradiation effects on natural dyeing performances of wool fabrics", Rev. Chim. 67, 2628-2633, 2016.
  75. I. Vujcic, S. Masic, M. Medic, B. Milicevic and M. Dramicanin, "The influence of gamma irradiation on the color change of wool, linen, silk, and cotton fabrics used in cultural heritage artifacts", Radiat. Phys. Chem. 156, 307-313, 2019.
  76. R. Jafari, S. Asadollahi, M. Farzaneh, "Applications of plasma technology in development of superhydrophobic surfaces", Plasma Chem. Plasma Process., 33, 177-200, 2013.
  77. R. Shishoo, "Plasma technologies for textiles", Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, 2007.
  78. H. Conrads, M. Schmidt, "Plasma generation and plasma sources", Plasma Sources Sci. Technol. 9, 441-454, 2000.
  79. A. Haji, M. Naebe, "Cleaner dyeing of textiles using plasma treatment and natural dyes: A review", J. Cleaner Prod. 265, 121866, 2020.
  80. R. Zhang, A. Wang, "Modification of wool by air plasma and enzymes as a cleaner and environmentally friendly process", J. Cleaner Prod. 87, 961-965, 2015.
  81. H. Barani, A. Calvimontes, "Effects of oxygen plasma treatment on the physical and chemical properties of wool fiber surface", Plasma Chem. Plasma Process. 34, 1291-1302, 2014.
  82. A. Haji, S. S. Qavamnia, F. K. Bizhaem, "Oxygen plasma as a pretreatment for environmentally friendly low temperature dyeing of wool natural fiber", J. Biodivers. Environ. Sci., 5, 602-607, 2014.
  83. A. Haji, "Natural dyeing of wool with henna and yarrow enhanced by plasma treatment and optimized with response surface methodology", J. Text. Inst. 111, 467-475, 2020.
  84. A. Haji, "Application of d-optimal design in the analysis and modelling of dyeing of plasma-treated wool with three natural dyes", Color. Technol. 136, 137-146, 2020
  85. V. S. Goud, "Influence of plasma processing parameters on mechanical properties of wool fabrics", Indian J. Fibre Text. Res. 37, 292-298, 2012.
  86. C. Wang, Y. Qiu, "Study on wettability improvement and its uniformity of wool fabric treated by atmospheric pressure plasma jet", J. Appl. Polym. Sci. 123, 1000–1006, 2011.
  87. M. Naebe, R. Denning, M. Huson, P. G. Cookson, X. Wang, "Ageing effect of plasma‐treated wool", J. Text. Inst. 102, 1086-1093, 2011.
  88. H. Barani, H. Maleki, "Plasma and ultrasonic process in dyeing of wool fibers with madder in presence of lecithin", J. Dispersion Sci. Technol. 32, 1191-1199, 2011.
  89. S. Ratnapandian, L. Wang, S. M. Fergusson, M. Naebe, "Effect of atmospheric plasma treatment on pad-dyeing of natural dyes on wool", J. Fiber Bioeng. Inform. 4, 267-276, 2011.
  90. A. Haji, A. M. Shoushtari, "Natural antibacterial finishing of wool fiber using plasma technology", Ind. Text. 62, 244-247, 2011.
  91. A. Haji, Z. Amiri, S. S. Qavamnia, "Natural dyeing of wool with arnebia euchroma optimized by plasma treatment and response surface methodology", J. Biodivers. Environ. Sci. 5, 493-498, 2014.
  92. ب. انصاری، م.خواجه مهریزی، ا. الدین حاجی، رنگرزی کالای پشمی‌آماده‌سازی شده به کمک پلاسمای اکسیژن با رنگزای طبیعی گل ریواس، نشریه علمی علوم و فناوری رنگ، 9، 143-135، 1394.
  93. A. Haji, P. Payvandy, "Application of ann and anfis in prediction of color strength of plasma-treated wool yarns dyed with a natural colorant", Pigm. Resin Technol. 49, 171-180, 2020.

94.J. Peran, S. Ercegović Ražić, A. Sutlović, T. Ivanković, M. I. Glogar, "Oxygen plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel", Color. Technol. 136, 177-187, 2020

Journal of Studies in Color World
Volume 11, Issue 2
Special issue about color and carpet
August 2021
Pages 1-16

Files

History

  • Receive Date: 22 February 2021
  • Revise Date: 18 March 2021
  • Accept Date: 21 April 2021

Share

How to cite

Statistics